Resources and Study

Hand Tool Set for the Apprentice’s First Day

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The following list is the required list of tools to be in the possession of a carpenter’s apprentice on her or his first day of work for Third Floor Corporation.
 Ben Fiering–Fort Montgomery, NY August 29, 2015

Apprentices helpers and contractors who desire to advance to the standing of carpenters on Third Floor Corporation projects, should come to work every day equipped with at least the following tools and a tool bag or box in which to keep them organized.

[There are a variety of branded products mentioned below and a few retailers.  It should be clearly stated that this blog accepts no funds or other support from retailers or manufacturers and that these should not be considered as endorsements. They are meant only to aid in locating and identifying the tools mentioned.]

  1. –Safety Glasses.
  2. –A note pad on which notes can be taken and drawings and calculations made.
  3. –A tool belt or a combination, hammer holster and nail apron, or one of each which will accommodate a hammer, fasteners and some or other simple tools to be worn when working in appropriate conditions.
    This Carhart set shown below is light and easy to take on and off for those of us who prefer not to work wearing a heavy belt.
    http://dungarees.net/product_Carhartt_A09_Duck_Nail_Apron|BRN|-369-1.html?utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=Mens%20Belts

    This cotton nail apron for less than 3 dollars is acceptable if worn with a hammer holster and a basic belt that will hold a tape measure. The master carpenter who first trained me worked this way, with a simple cotton nail apron and a hammer holster.

    http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/tool-storage/Rigs-Pouches/rigs-aprons-pouches-irwin-4031051?utm_source=msn&utm_medium=shp&utm_term=B223324&utm_campaign=Rigs-Aprons-Pouches&infoParam.campaignId=WR

    http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/tool-storage/ToolBags-Belts-Totes/leather-hammer-holster?utm_source=msn&utm_medium=shp&utm_term=B944767&utm_campaign=Tool-Bags-Belts-Totes-Organizers&infoParam.campaignId=WR

  4. –A knife or utility knife in good condition
  5. –A tape Measure.. and one of good quality, Stanley, Dewalt, Milwaukee, etc with a wide rigid blade of at least 16′.
  6. –A carpenter’s pencil and a standard pencil and means of keeping these sharpened.
  7. –A Framing Hammer of some sort with a waffle head. I recommend a wooden handled Framing hammer but this is not required.

    http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Products/23-OZ-Milled-Face-California-Framing-Hammer-With-Curved-Handle__CF1-HC.aspx The Vaughn “California” framer is the classic but there are many variations

  8. –A finish hammer preferably 16 oz and must be smooth faced so as no to mar finish woodwork. I recommend the hammer below. It is a lifetime tool and can be used to pry nails and such due to its strength.

    https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=estwing+finish++hammer&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001

  9. –A “catspaw” nail puller. such as this one shown below. There are many variations on this tool from Stanley, Vaughn, Bostitch and Estwing and Dewalt. personal preference should prevail but you should have a durable double ended tool of this type.

    http://www.toolup.com/Vaughan-BC10-10-5-Bear-Claw-Nail-Puller?CAWELAID=120204890000061219

  10. –A 12 – 16″ Flatbar This one below is from Dewalt

    https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=carpenters+flatbar&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001

  11. –A combination square, I recommend the classic Stanley tool below. It is durable, inexpensive and the markings are etched so they will stay readable as the tools ages and wears.

    http://www.zoro.com/stanley-combination-square-12-in-die-cast-46-123/i/G0422536/?utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA

  12. –A set of good long body wood chisels and a stone to keep these sharp. This set below is available at the home depot.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Buck-Bros-Professional-Wood-Chisel-Set-3-Piece-40603/100067444

  13. –A set of simple screwdrivers or a combination screwdriver with a #1, #2 both Phillips and flat.
  14. –A simple adjustable “monkey” wrench
  15. –A Lineman’s Pliers. These Channel Lock pliers will last a lifetime if kept oiled and dry. In a pinch you can cut through a deck screw with these to shorten it. Klein also makes a pair of these as do many others.

    http://www.eastwood.com/channellock-reg-368-8in-hi-leverage-lineman-pliers.html?fee=7&fep=26273?fee=5&fep=4990&SRCCODE=1SE1528&creative=5461472965&device=c&matchtype={MatchType}

  16. –A chalk line.”Chalk Box” .. and some chalk to put in it’ This Irwin “Straight Line” solid aluminum chalk box doubles as a Plumb Bob and has yet to be improved on by more expensive plastic bodied models.

    http://www.restockit.com/irwin-125-50-chalk-line-reel-num-586-63950.html?source=IDx20111014x00001b&utm_medium=PPC&utm_source=Bing&utm_campaign=Bing-Product-Ads

  17. –A brass plumb bob

    http://www.toolup.com/Empire-Level-908BR-8-oz-Brass-Plumb-Bob?CAWELAID=120204890000010643

  18. –A two foot Level. and over time a plumber’s level and a 4′ level.
  19. –Nail Sets such as these inexpensive standard type shown below
    https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=nail+set&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001

——-

In addition to these it is useful for people to have in their cars some basic painting supplies, a caulking gun putty knife etc.

A review of finishing chemistry as applied to floors.

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What to Know about Wax, Shellac & Other Finishes

by Catherine Liewen  Originally Published March 31st 2002 as Different Strokes in April/May 2002 Issue of Hardwood Floors

……..
excerpted and annotated by Doctor Structure. Follow link here to complete article in Hardwood Floors

{I excerpt here text on those finishes that are part of our typical repertoire. Often our finishing work involves a combination of these products in a set order. Shellac as a sanding sealer, Oil as a base coat, and wax as a top coat for example.
I deleted the section on Laquers from this post. I do not recommend these for floor finishes and they are not suited  for use by amateurs or entry level workers who have not mastered other finishes. Laquers also pose a significant health and safety risk when used in uncontrolled environments. They belong in the professional spray booth or master’s shop.
The author of this article does not delve into contemporary acrylic waterborne finishes. These have improved in quality, bond and durability greatly since this article was originally published.

There is in my view a form of insanity in the common practice of applying surface coats of polyurethane varnishes which once they fail must be ground off with heavy sandpaper. Oil finishes, for which I am an unashamed partisan, are renewable and so can be restored without sanding down and so shortening the life of  a quality hardwood wood floor.

For an exhaustive and thorough review of traditional finishing chemistry as applied to furniture and millwork, pick up a used copy of Wood Furniture, by James E Brumbaugh This is currently available on Alibris for 99cents and on Amazon for less than four dollars.
–Dr.S}

Wax

Used on floors for centuries, wax is one of the oldest finishes known to man. Though it was popular for many years, it’s now considered a specialty finish. With the resurgence of antique-looking floors, contractors are going back to wax to create this look. Wax may also be an option for a natural look on some exotic species. This all-natural, plant-derived product gives the wood a softer appearance and feel than synthetic finishes, and allows the wood to breathe and age naturally. Most commonly applied over an oil sealer, this odorless finish doesn’t create the fumes typical of synthetic finishes—another selling point for eco-minded consumers.

Wax comes in either a liquid or paste form and is relatively easy to apply. Paste wax is buffed in with a rag, while liquid wax is applied with a lambswool applicator. After it’s applied, wait 30 minutes for the wax to harden, then buff it in with steel wool. As it’s buffed, the wax softens and penetrates into the wood, so make sure you buff it long enough. Apply wax sparingly—too much wax on a floor attracts dirt and causes it to scuff. Wax also has a quick dry time. Once the floor has been properly buffed, it’s ready for foot traffic in just a few hours. Wax is also the most forgiving of floor finishes. If you make a mistake, you can remove it with mineral spirits and start over—without having to abrade the floor.

Wax is also ideal for homeowners who want to maintain the floor themselves, rather than having a crew shut the house down for a typical refinishing job. Even though its durability can’t compare to a polyurethane finish, if maintained properly, the floor never needs to be resanded. It is one of the easiest finishes to repair. A simple buffing and an application of more wax can eliminate traffic patterns and scuff marks on the floor.

Wax finish does have its limitations and is not ideal for every situation. Wax is relatively slippery and should not be used in commercial applications. It’s also susceptible to water spots, so it may not be ideal in a kitchen. Because it tends to crystallize and yellow, wax is also not recommended on a white stained or maple floor.

Oil

{link to Bob Flexner’s Popular Woodworking article on oil finishes}

Another way to achieve an old-world, low luster look is to use natural penetrating oils such as tung, linseed and lemon oil. Similar to wax, these finishes have been used for years to seal and protect wood. While they are a popular choice to finish furniture, they also have specialized applications for hardwood floors. These all-natural finishes give the eco-minded consumer another alternative to synthetic finishes. The fumes from these products are minimal, and lemon oil actually has a pleasant odor. Because oils show the grain of the wood and produce a matte finish, they are another option for the consumer who wants to avoid the plastic look of some synthetic finishes. Oil finishes may also be the answer to finishing some exotic species, such as teak, that can be temperamental with urethane finishes.

These user-friendly finishes are fast and easy to apply. Simply wipe the oil on with a rag, wait for it to dry and buff out the final coat. You want to apply enough oil to penetrate through the wood, but too many coats of oil can gather dirt and be more susceptible to scratch and scuff marks. And, unlike wax, penetrating oil takes longer to dry, so if a heavy coat of oil is applied, it could take several days before the floor is ready for heavy foot traffic.

Also similar to wax, penetrating oils are finishes that homeowners can maintain themselves. Because the wear surface is just sealed wood rather than a coat of finish, an application of more oil can eliminate wear patterns and return the original luster to the floor. The durability of oil-finished floors can’t compare to modern finishes, but with proper maintenance, they can withstand normal wear. They won’t scratch or peel, and lemon oil even repels water. Penetrating oils don’t have the slippage concerns of wax, so they can be used in commercial applications.
{There are hybrid modern oil formulations such as WOCA and polymerized oils that have a durability superior to many polyurethane varnish type finishes.  This article is originally written in 2002. There has been some progress in the chemical formulation of certain finishes since that time.}

Shellac

Shellac is another floor finish that was commonly used in the 19th and 20th centuries, but fell from common use when synthetic finishes were invented. Produced from the resin secreted by a lac bug found in India and Thailand, it is the only known commercial resin that comes from an insect. The hardened lac resin is scraped from trees, then processed for use in commercial applications. The shellac is dissolved in alcohol and measured in “pound cuts,” which is the number of pounds dissolved in a gallon of alcohol. The higher the pound cut,the higher the resin content.

Because this product is a natural, renewable resource, it’s now being marketed as an environmentally friendly, natural-looking alternative to synthetic finish. It also is immune to VOC standards, since its main solvent is denatured alcohol. Shellac is also non-toxic (it’s FDA-approved for use in candy, fruit and pharmaceuticals). Other selling points of shellac are that it’s quick-drying and easy to maintain and remove.

To avoid lap marks, shellac should be applied quickly with a lambswool applicator or brush. Lap marks can also be avoided by thinning the shellac with denatured alcohol down to a 2-pound cut rather than its standard 3-pound cut. This method allows you to get three or four coats of finish on the floor in five hours.

Shellac is not as durable as most typical topcoat finishes, but it’s often used under wax finish to increase its resistance to scratches. It’s easy to touch up,however, and wear patterns can be blended in with fine steel wool and an application of more shellac. Shellac is not compatible with most topcoat finishes, so usually only wax is applied over it.

….

Aniline Dye

If a wood floor is adorned with vivid, custom color, chances are it was achieved with aniline dyes. From deep black and burgundy to bright green and blue, aniline dyes expand the contractor’s color palette to hundreds of intense, deep colors that can’t be created with pigmented stains. Aniline dyes are popular for creating a distressed, antique look or for producing unique colors in medallions and borders. The dye doesn’t just sit on the surface—it penetrates deep into the wood, permanently staining the wood and allowing the natural grain to show through.

Aniline dyes are made from aniline oils or coal tar derivatives. Available in a powder form, they’re offered in different grades that are soluble in water, alcohol or oil. They can be used alone, or added to an existing stain to enhance the color. Be aware that when you add dyes to a stain, chances are the stain manufacturer won’t guarantee the results.

The drawback to aniline dyes is that they are difficult to work with, and it takes years of experience to master using them correctly. They dry extremely fast, and lap marks and blotchy spots are difficult to avoid.

Even small sanding imperfections aren’t acceptable, because the floor needs a smooth, even surface to accept the dye evenly. Map out a plan of attack for dying the floor and apply it in 2-foot-row segments at a time. Don’t try to apply too much at a time. Some contractors prefer to dilute the dye solution to a 50/50 ratio and apply it twice, with an hour of dry time between each application. If you’re using a water-soluble dye, be sure to check the floor with a moisture meter before sealing. After the floor is completely dry, a stain or sealer may be applied on top.

Also be aware of where the dyed surface is going to be in the home. Aniline dyes are not completely colorfast, and they will fade in direct sunlight. The stronger the aniline dye solution, the more likely it is that the floors will fade over time.

Bleaching

When white and pastel floors were in vogue in the ’80s, bleaching was a very popular technique for lightening the grain of wood floors. With all of the new, lighter species of flooring on the market and the bad reputation that bleaching has gained since then, it has become less common. There are still some applications, when done correctly, where bleaching is used to achieve a desired look, such as a distressed, driftwood-colored floor. Contrary to popular belief, bleaching does not turn a floor white—it lightens the floor’s natural color, evening out its tones. It’s often used to take out the redness of red oak. It’s not for use on all species—it may produce a greenish cast on white oak floors.

Bleaching damages the fiber of the wood, so it shouldn’t be over-applied. Only one application is all that is recommended, though some contractors use two applications to achieve a consistent tone. Apply it with a sponge and use only bleach made for wood flooring, preferably a two-part bleach.

Be sure to read the instructions and neutralize the bleach if necessary. The water used in bleaching raises the grain of the wood, so buff it out with a screen or double-sided disc, typically 80-grit, before applying the sealer or stain. Some finishes are not compatible with bleach, and others may cause the floor to yellow or amber, so choose the topcoat wisely. A non-ambering surface finish is recommended. ……

Click this link for complete article

http://www.hardwoodfloorsmag.com/sanding-finishing/what-to-know-about-wax-shellac-amp-other-alternative-finishes.html

Structural Rehabilitation of a ‘balcony deck’ on a classic (1960’s or 1970’s) Deck House.

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By Benjamin Fiering with Eli Weiner –Fort Montgomery, NY

March 1, 2015
This photo shows a Balcony Deck built to Deck House Standards. The girders which support the 3x6 Cedar Decking are apart on 8' centers. The same girders also support the cantilevered elements of the upper floor photo from Triangle Modernist Houses The Williamson House in Raleigh North Carolina
A “balcony deck” built to Deck House standards. The girders which support the 3×6 Cedar Decking are apart on 8′ centers. The same girders also support the cantilevered elements of the upper floor
photo from Triangle Modernist Houses The Williamson House in Raleigh North Carolina

This article describes the process adopted by the Third Floor Corporation construction crew in approaching the structural rehabilitation of a common feature of classic period Deck Houses,  the balcony deck. The task is relatively complex because the substructure of these also supports cantilevered elements of the upper level floor and in many cases roof loads . So when decay sets in to the decks on these houses the repair often involves providing structural support to the core elements of the house.

In the past year alone we have repaired versions of the same condition on 5 houses and viewed symptoms of the similar developments in a few others.

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The method described in this article derives from these recent projects as well as from our experiences in residential construction over the past two decades. We will use photographs and specific details from two recent projects, one in Norwalk, CT and the other in Hillsdale, NY, as the basis to describe our approach. Both of these jobs present in a representative form a condition that I understand to be common to many Deck Houses built from the 1960’s to the 1980’s.Our objective in the case of both houses was it should be with all restorative construction work:

  • to make a repair that is permanent for all practical purposes, one that  is structurally and mechanically equal, if not superior, to the original construction.
  • to take advantage of the most contemporary methods, materials, tools and knowledge but to appreciate the concepts which informed the original engineering
  • to preserve the architectural, stylistic, aesthetic, and structural integrity of the house without compromise.
Photo depicts the underside of the Hillsdale balcony deck before the start of construction. Note 1 in the red box shows transition on the underside of floor decking to balcony decking. This beam supports floor, deck and roof loads. The green circle shows moss growing where the siding meets the decking.
Photo depicts the underside of the Hillsdale balcony deck before the start of construction. Note 1 in the red box shows transition on the underside of floor decking to balcony decking. This beam supports floor, deck and roof loads. The green circle shows moss growing where the siding meets the decking. Click to expand photo

Eli Weiner our lead carpenter in the Upper Hudson Valley region supervised the work at the Hillsdale project, he writes: “This Deck House showed significant structural failing in its south-facing wall. Three of the structural posts connecting the rafters to the deck girders below showed damage, one quite serious. Years of water damage had rotted the bottom of one post away, such that the corresponding rafter above had sunk approximately two inches below the others. Between the posts, 2×4 blocking which made up the sill between the girders and beneath the sliding doors had also suffered damage, and several needed rebuilding. Finally, the cedar deck and its columns were expired, and some ground-floor framing had suffered considerable water damage.”

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A project of this type must be approached in a a definite order. The first step must be to set up shoring elements to support the critical house structure during demolition. Additional shoring is placed to ensure that the demolition process is controlled and safe for the crew.

As has been described, in a typical Deck House balcony assembly the rafters supporting the roof deck are laid out on the same 8' on center pattern as the deck balcony girders. 4x4 posts between the sliding doors transfer the roof loads down to the girders. In order to remove and replace the decayed girders the rafters must be supported directly on the interior of the house. In both the Hillsdale and Norwalk jobs we jacked the sunken rafters back to their original height slowly during the course of the job.
As has been described, in a typical Deck House balcony assembly the rafters supporting the roof deck are laid out on the same 8′ on center pattern as the deck balcony girders. 4×4 posts between the sliding doors transfer the roof loads down to the girders. In order to remove and replace the decayed girders and posts the rafters must be supported directly on the interior of the house. In both the Hillsdale and Norwalk jobs we jacked sunken rafters back to their original height slowly during the course of the job.  A 2x 8 plate is installed in this photo. This ties the rafters to each other at the bottom to help prevent rollout as the jacks are tightened. This course of jacks is supported from below so that the roof loads are transferred directly to the basement slab. Additional jacks are installed between the girders to support the cantilevered section of the upper floor while the girders are removed. We use heavy duty adjustable steel jacks with a threaded cap. These are very strong and allow for fine and measured adjustment. We also use hydraulic jacks for rapid adjustments or where additional force is needed as well as solid wooden members for static shoring.

Once the core structure of the house has been properly supported and we have used the jacks to relieve the loads from those elements that we will remove and replace, then we begin the basic demolition. Because of the unstable nature of the conditions static shoring has been added to the deck girders while the balcony deck boards are removed.

Eli Writes “We removed the deck entirely, along with the six girders, all of which showed damage on the top face and, more importantly, at the joints with the structural posts above. The six columns supporting the deck were also in bad shape. The 4×4 columns rested on a  2 ” galvanized pipe mount set in below-grade concrete footings. Many of the pipes were terribly corroded, several being nearly rusted through.

Deck used to supply these post mounts as part of their kits. These mounds made of galvanized pipe with a welded stirrup are prone to rust over time and should be replaced where possible on still existing houses.
Deck used to supply these post mounts as part of their kits. These mounds made of galvanized pipe with a welded stirrup are prone to rust over time and should be replaced where possible on still existing houses.

Indeed, once disconnected from the deck above, one column keeled over from its own (inconsiderable) weight.
The house structural damage had a few consequences: in the interior, the floor had begun to sink at the point of worst damage, and the floorboards had begun to separate. (The most damaged post had also kicked out from the house several inches over six feet.); and the existing mahogany sliding door sill (and the radiator beneath it) had sunk where the post damage was worst, buckling the recessed radiator and deforming the sill.
Our repair began with supporting and tying together the rafters in the interior, along with the first floor girders below, to transfer the roof load from the rotting south-wall posts to jack stands below. After demolishing the deck and removing the existing girders and columns, new footing caps were poured over the existing deck column footings. We erected new girders, and went about replacing and repairing the compromised structural posts. This involved removing two sets of sliding doors and their frames, in order to remove the existing posts and rebuild the 2×4 sills between.”

Hillsdale NY, Deck House Gerald Moore and Eli Weiner shown working in photograph. Deck girders are shored prior to deck surface removal
Hillsdale NY, Deck House Gerald Moore and Eli Weiner shown working in photograph. Deck girders are shored prior to deck surface removal

Due to the weight of the 4×12 girders and their critical attachments which penetrate the house we approach their removal carefully. If one kicked suddenly loose, aside from potentially injuring a worker or collapsing elements of the shoring, the leverage from a shifting girder still embedded in the house walls or directly supporting a load bearing column could cause significant damage to the house.  After shoring the girders we remove the old decking.

 

Carpenter Mike Roldan cuts the through nails on Deck House Balcony here using a sawzall a grinder with a metal cutting wheel is also convenient for this task. The decks on these houses are constructed of 3x6" solid cedar timbers. They are fastened to each other with long nails through the sides of the boards and span eight feet without intermediate support on the finished decks. The deck surfaces on a Deck House which has been built to specification perform greater structural work than on a conventional stick framed deck. Their removal should be conducted with care to avoid injury or damage.
Carpenter Mike Roldan cuts the through nails on Deck House Balcony here using a sawzall. A grinder with a metal cutting wheel is also convenient for this task. Once the through nails have been cut the boards can be lifted off the girders with a crowbar. The deck surfaces on a Deck House which has been built to specification perform greater structural work than so on a conventional stick framed deck. Their removal should be conducted with care and the sub-structure properly shored against lateral movement to avoid injury or damage.

The decks on these houses are constructed of 3×6″ solid cedar timbers. They are fastened to each other with 10″ long nails through the sides of the boards and span eight feet without intermediate support on the finished decks. A hardened rubber spacer is installed with the nails to maintain equal spacing and to provide weather protection for the exposed nail shank. The deck boards are also typically ‘toe-nailed’ (nailed at an angle) from the side faces down to the girders.

Notice the thickness of the lumber on this Deck House Balcony Deck in Pleasantville NY. Standard decking on stick built houses is 5/4" nominal, about 1" thick actual, whereas the solid cedar decking provided by deck house is 12/4" actually about 2 5/8" thick. Photograph and stair carpentry by Third Floor apprentice Israel Mermelstein
Note the thickness of the lumber on this Deck House Pleasantville NY. Standard decking on stick built houses is 5/4″ nominal, about 1″ thick actual, whereas the solid cedar decking provided by Deck House is 12/4″ actually about 2 5/8″ thick. Due to the thickness of the material it is possible to reclaim a significant portion of the removed decking for future use. This stair is built entirely of reclaimed cedar decking from the upper level deck which was  replaced with new material.
Photograph and stair carpentry by Third Floor apprentice Israel Mermelstein

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the decking has been removed then the damaged girders can be cut away. It is best to conduct this task by supporting the girders and through cutting them into smaller pieces. Then the remaining short ends can be removed from their insertion points at the house. At this stage jacks and shoring directly supporting the girders are replaced with jacks supporting the floor loads on either side of the beams. If the rafters have been properly shored and jacked to relieve pressure on the columns which are between the sliding doors then the floor loads on the two foot or so cantilevered section are relatively light. Still they must be supported to avoid shift of interior finish work. In many of the houses, as is the case in both the Hillsdale and Norwalk, houses a heating element runs beneath the sliding doors in a small sill.  As is shown and described above often the decay has spread to the whole insertion point of the girders, the post bases and the built up sill under the sliding doors.  This shoring which, once the roof is supported, only supports a small area of the floor and the sliding doors themselves may have to be moved and repositioned several times  as decayed sections of the sill are replaced. It is advisable to remove the glass panels of the sliding doors in order to relieve weight from these positions as well. The frames may or may not need to be removed and or replaced depending upon their condition. If needed Deck House makes available suitable replacement parts for these elements.

This photograph shows our Norwalk project with the decking and girders fully removed except for the beam ends which at this stage still support the cantilevered floor. From this point the floor is supported by jacks on either side of the girder ends and the approximately two foot remaining beam sections can be easily removed.
This photograph shows our Norwalk project with the decking and girders fully removed except for the beam ends which at this stage still support the cantilevered floor. From this point the floor is supported by jacks on either side of the girder ends and the approximately two foot remaining beam sections can be easily removed. Photo by Ben Fiering

It is advisable to remove the glass panels of the sliding doors in order to relieve weight from these positions as well. The frames may or may not need to be removed and or replaced depending upon their condition. If needed Deck House makes available suitable replacement parts for these elements.

Now that the shoring critical demolition and as needed repairs to the interior tongue and groove floor decking and sills is complete new structural girders must be installed in the old insertion points. On both of the jobs described the footings supporting the outer deck columns were also replaced or substantially repaired. The builder in this case must keep in mind that these footings support not just the deck but major portions of the house and roof loads, snow in the winter etcetera. Also, due to the nature of the construction rigid post connections at the ground and at the top of the columns where they meet the girders is desirable.

bigfoot
In Norwalk we used 12″ diameter Sonotube with a 28″ diameter Bigfoot footing base, the concrete was steel reinforced.

Our process was to complete any concrete work prior to installing the new girders but to leave the finish posts off at the first stage of assembly and to support the new beams on rigging and scaffholding until proper levels were established and the new frame was relatively rigid. On both jobs we added an element not typically found in Deck House construction of the classic period. this is an horizontal “cross beam” or bridging of pressure treated 4×6, directly below the sliding doors at the face of the house below the tongue and groove floor decking and half notched over the girders.

Beam bridges floor load betwen main girders.
arrows point to bridging click to enlarge

This element is added to improve rigidity of the deck frame and to resist any tendency to shift or bow beneath the sliding doors. It is slightly noticeable as a small coffer from interior windows looking out underneath the deck and unseen from any other vantage point.

 

 

It is desirable to consider priming and flashing or otherwise weather protecting critical areas of the girder and cross beam assembly before they are installed as access to some of these points may be difficult once the beams are inserted into the house.

In Norwalk we used 4x 12 PSL (parallel stranded lumber) to replace the original girders. The posts used here are Solid ipe 4x4's. 12" cylindrical footings can be seen in this photo as well as custom metal connectors made by Garrison Forge. The "cross beams" or bridging mentioned in the article are behind the Tyvek housewrap in this photo.
In Norwalk we used 4″x 12″ PSL (parallel stranded lumber) to replace the original girders. The posts used here are Solid ipe 4×4’s. 12″ cylindrical footings can be seen in this photo as well as custom metal connectors made by Garrison Forge. The “cross beams” or bridging mentioned in the article are behind the Tyvek housewrap in this photo. Before the flashing and decking was installed these beams were coated with a brown tinted Sherwin Williams “Adhesion Primer.” at this stage of the job the posts which support the window rafters and which lie between the sliding doors were also replaced or repaired as needed.

Before the Decking was installed we carefully and thoroughly flashed the beam insertion points. The bases of the new columns were coated in flashing cement and all potential water penetration areas were flashed or treated using a combination of Grace Vycor Black Jack or other bituminous flashing cement, and metal flashing. It is easiest to complete trim work against the house before the decking is installed or to leave out 1 or two courses of the decking to allow for future treatment. At the deck line we transitioned from cedar trim material to Hardi fiber-cement based products in order to inhibit organic activity water absorption and decay.
The tops of the girders were also treated with multiple layers of flashing including in order from the surface to above:

Photo shows upper level cantilever resting on newly installed girder. Bridging at edge of house is also visible in this photo.
Photo shows upper level cantilever resting on newly installed girder. Bridging at edge of house is also visible in this photo.
by Ben Fiering
      • A layer of Grace Vykor or ice and water shield or similar applied directly to the primed surface of the wooden girder;
      • a layer of Black Jack flashing cement in which was placed on each side of the girder a typical 4″ roof eave drip edge between the drip edges a bead of Black Jack was also run.
      • Atop the drip edge we placed a 3/8 by 2 1/4″ white oak nailing strip also set on the flat in the black jack tar.

The nailing strip serves to elevate the cedar decking from the relatively wide beams and helps to prevent water pooling under the Deck boards by allowing runoff. Also the nailing strips protect the flashing on top of the girders during the installation process. Without these the metal drip edge would surely be damaged and the waterproofing disturbed during the placement of the boards. White Oak has a natural weather resistance and is a very strong material allowing its use in this thin application.

Photo shows newly installed cedar decking with flashing and nailing strip assembly. The first courses have been left off to allow detailing at the edge of the house. Unlike the original installation we will not nail the first course in to the house sill. In keeping with contemporary practice we will allow ample space for air flow between the house and the start of the decking.
Photo shows newly installed cedar decking with flashing and nailing strip assembly. The first courses have been left off to allow detailing at the edge of the house. Unlike the original installation we will not nail the first course in to the house sill. In keeping with contemporary practice we will allow ample space for air flow between the house and the start of the decking.
In this photo the metal drip edge at the top of the girders can be seen. The girders have been primed two coats with a high quality adhesion primer and the posts are sealed and stained. The Decking was pre-finished using Duckback Superdeck.
In this photo the metal drip edge at the top of the girders can be seen. The girders have been primed two coats with a high quality adhesion primer and the posts are sealed and stained. The cedar decking was finished on all sides and the ends using Duckback Superdeck.

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The rest of the decking is installed following the methods of the original houses. The boards are blind toe nailed through the sides down into the girders. We recommend piloting the nail holes and using a punch in order to minimize the damage of hammering to the cedar boards. We also seal the nail penetrations with an oil sealer or a little Black Jack in a caulking gun to minimize weather penetration at the nail insertion point. The boards are through nailed from the sides into each other at approximately 30″ centers with the spacers placed so that the nails penetrate the spacer and enter the adjacent board. These nails must be piloted due to their length and the importance of controlling the point of entry to the next board. Another article can discuss in greater detail the decking installation. Deck House also has materials and diagrams available to the homeowner or builder approaching this task.

It should be stated that though Third Floor Corp has a productive and friendly relationship to Deck/Acorn, we do not in any way represent their company. The opinions and methodologies described in this article are solely those of the authors and editor of of the Doctor Structure Blog. The circumstances of each house is different. Each Deck House has its own characteristics. Structural work of the type described in this article should be attempted by experience persons or under the supervision of a master builder or professional engineer.

Comments on this article, constructive criticism, questions or additional contributions are encouraged. Readers wishing to submit a word press article to this blog for publication should send a copy by email to doctorstructure@thirdfloorconstruction.com.

As Spring approaches It’s time to check the condition of stains and varnish on exterior woodwork.

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“How To Maintain Your Deck House Exterior Wood Surfaces“

Originally Posted on March 27, 2014 by Steve Kay on the Deck/Acorn Blog

Reblogged by Doctor Structure Feb 27, 2015

Conservatory Remodel

The application of exterior and interior finishes is crucial to the appearance and durability of your Deck House. On going maintenance will protect and lengthen the life of your home.
Exterior wood surfaces, including window frames and doors, must be treated on a regular basis. If your doors and windows have not been sealed or sealed improperly, the wood can expand and contract allowing water and air into your home. This can cause premature failure of the component and possible structural damage to your home. Examine your house annually and recoat all exposed wood as required, before any deterioration occurs. In extreme conditions, where materials are exposed to excessive sunlight or salt air and spray, wood may need to be treated more often than is suggested in this blog. Many times stains may look to be in good condition even after they have stopped protecting the wood. Water should bead and run off, not soak into a stain that is in good condition.

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Bibliography for the Apprentice Carpenter

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Bibliography for the Apprentice Carpenter

The following is a list of books and publications that I have recommended to apprentices starting out with Third Floor over the years. Taken as a whole these give a good sense of the history of the craft most particularly in the European/American Tradition. In addition to these books I also recommend a study of the traditions of Japanese carpentry and architecture. Recently I have begun to encourage the study of the theory of high efficiency building construction known as Passivehaus

  1. Vitruvius (1st Century BC)  The Ten Books of Architecture [link to the Gutenberg Project free online version]  TRANSLATED BY MORRIS HICKY MORGAN, PH.D., LL.D., HARVARD UNIVERSITY PRESS, CAMBRIDGE  (1914)
  2. John Fitchen, Building Construction Before Mechanization, MIT (1989)
  3. Harry F. Ulrey and John E. Ball, The Carpenters and Builders Library 4 vols, Audel 1972 [This four volume set is the best and most thorough discussion of the technicalities of the carpenters craft ever put to print. The volumes are listed by subject below]
    • Vol 1. Tools, Steel Square, Joinery
    • Vol 2. Builders Math, Plans, Specifications
    • Vol 3. Layouts, Foundations, Framing
    • Vol 4. Millwork, Power Tools, Painting
  4. Fine Homebulding Magazine and the related publications of Taunton Press
  5. PHIUS Passive House Institute US access to Passive House Training
  6. Rachel Carley The Visual Dictionary of American Domestic Architecture, Henry Holt and Company (1994) [Among other things this book has an excellent short section detailing various types of Native American dwellings and structures. It is also useful for the development of the architectural vocabulary necessary to the professional carpenter. Through the book most of the architectural details or “elements” are labelled. ]